lana Buckley
Types of Ageing and How to Manage Them
Let’s acknowledge the fact that time marches on relentlessly. With every passing minute, we grow older, and the years we have lived leave their mark, etching new lines and wrinkles onto our faces.
Wrinkles… Not everyone finds it easy to accept these external changes without fear, though some do so with grace and calm dignity. Sharon Stone once wisely said: “You need to sit down and really look at yourself, especially as you age and your face changes. People are afraid of changing; that they're losing something. They don't understand that they are also gaining something.”
To better understand the changes that come with age and the different types of facial ageing, we spoke with professional cosmetologist and renowned beauty therapist Lana Buckley, based in London. It turns out that understanding the different ageing types is incredibly valuable, as it helps to manage them effectively and choose the most appropriate care for your skin.
Wrinkles… Not everyone finds it easy to accept these external changes without fear, though some do so with grace and calm dignity. Sharon Stone once wisely said: “You need to sit down and really look at yourself, especially as you age and your face changes. People are afraid of changing; that they're losing something. They don't understand that they are also gaining something.”
To better understand the changes that come with age and the different types of facial ageing, we spoke with professional cosmetologist and renowned beauty therapist Lana Buckley, based in London. It turns out that understanding the different ageing types is incredibly valuable, as it helps to manage them effectively and choose the most appropriate care for your skin.
Age-Related Skin Changes
In gerontology, the ageing process is classified into three types:
Natural Ageing
Premature Ageing
Delayed Ageing
Everyone knows that ageing is inevitable, but it affects individuals at different times. The ageing process is influenced not only by genetic predisposition but also by lifestyle choices, internal health factors, and environmental conditions. Extensive research has been conducted on this subject across various sources.
The first signs of skin ageing typically appear in the form of fine lines.
Over time, the skin becomes thinner and more vulnerable to external stressors, while its natural glow fades. The hydrolipidic barrier, which acts as the skin’s protective layer, weakens. The production of collagen and elastin—fibres responsible for skin’s firmness and elasticity—gradually declines.
For most women over 40, "crow’s feet" begin to form around the eyes, the skin on the eyelids becomes heavier, and the first folds appear on the neck. However, it is important to acknowledge that not all women experience ageing in the same way.
The first signs of skin ageing typically appear in the form of fine lines.
Over time, the skin becomes thinner and more vulnerable to external stressors, while its natural glow fades. The hydrolipidic barrier, which acts as the skin’s protective layer, weakens. The production of collagen and elastin—fibres responsible for skin’s firmness and elasticity—gradually declines.
For most women over 40, "crow’s feet" begin to form around the eyes, the skin on the eyelids becomes heavier, and the first folds appear on the neck. However, it is important to acknowledge that not all women experience ageing in the same way.
Morphotypes: How to Determine Your Facial Ageing Type
When observing the faces of my clients, friends, and acquaintances, I have noticed that signs of ageing tend to follow certain predictable patterns. For some, the face appears to "dry out" and the cheekbones become more prominent, while for others, the opposite occurs, with the development of a double chin. This is directly linked to individual ageing types, or more precisely, morphotypes, which are determined by nature.
Important to Remember
We cannot stop the natural ageing process entirely. However, by understanding your specific morphotype, it is possible to delay its progression or reduce the severity of the changes that occur.
Understanding your facial ageing type is crucial not only for selecting the most suitable anti-ageing treatments, but also for adjusting your home beauty routine, incorporating the right professional cosmetic treatments in the salon, and ultimately preserving the youthful appearance of your skin for longer.
Facial morphotypes were first identified and classified by Professor and Honoured Physician of the RSFSR, Inna Kolgunenko, in 1974. There are five recognised facial ageing types: tired, fine-wrinkled, deformational, combined, and muscular. Additionally, there is a sixth type known as senile emaciated, which is more commonly observed in women over the age of 70.
The characteristics of these ageing types are based on the study of various factors, including genetic heritage, skin type, and body structure. To determine your own morphological ageing type, you can either analyse your face using Kolgunenko’s morphotype table as a guide or consult with a qualified cosmetologist.
Facial morphotypes were first identified and classified by Professor and Honoured Physician of the RSFSR, Inna Kolgunenko, in 1974. There are five recognised facial ageing types: tired, fine-wrinkled, deformational, combined, and muscular. Additionally, there is a sixth type known as senile emaciated, which is more commonly observed in women over the age of 70.
The characteristics of these ageing types are based on the study of various factors, including genetic heritage, skin type, and body structure. To determine your own morphological ageing type, you can either analyse your face using Kolgunenko’s morphotype table as a guide or consult with a qualified cosmetologist.
Kolgunenko Morphotypes Table – Facial Ageing Types
Tired Ageing Type
This is considered one of the most favourable ageing types, sometimes referred to as the "puffy type." It tends to respond well to cosmetic care and typically becomes noticeable in middle age. In the morning, the face often appears fresh, but by the evening, age-related changes become more apparent. As a result, those around you may comment that you look tired, even without an obvious cause. This is one of the first indicators of this morphotype.
Other common signs include reduced muscle tone, lower skin elasticity, drooping corners of the eyes and mouth, the formation of tear troughs and nasolabial folds, dull skin tone, puffiness, and a gradual loss of facial volume. Individuals with this type of ageing often have normal, dry, or combination skin, with a moderate layer of subcutaneous fat and muscle. They typically have an oval or diamond-shaped face and either a normal or slim body type.
This is considered one of the most favourable ageing types, sometimes referred to as the "puffy type." It tends to respond well to cosmetic care and typically becomes noticeable in middle age. In the morning, the face often appears fresh, but by the evening, age-related changes become more apparent. As a result, those around you may comment that you look tired, even without an obvious cause. This is one of the first indicators of this morphotype.
Other common signs include reduced muscle tone, lower skin elasticity, drooping corners of the eyes and mouth, the formation of tear troughs and nasolabial folds, dull skin tone, puffiness, and a gradual loss of facial volume. Individuals with this type of ageing often have normal, dry, or combination skin, with a moderate layer of subcutaneous fat and muscle. They typically have an oval or diamond-shaped face and either a normal or slim body type.
Skincare Recommendations
The simplest and most accessible advice is to ensure you get at least eight hours of good-quality sleep in a well-ventilated room. Ideally, sleep with a window slightly open, even in colder months. When it comes to your at-home skincare routine, focus on toning and stimulating the skin through daily facial self-massage. Alternate between active movements and slower drainage techniques. The less toned the skin, the gentler and more precise the movements should be. It’s recommended to learn proper massage techniques with a specialist.
Your skincare products should focus on stimulating collagen production, improving skin tone, and enhancing radiance. Look for serums and creams with Vitamin C, products containing AHA acids, and masks that offer hydration and lifting effects. Don’t overlook regular physical activity, ideally outdoors. Combine cardio, stretching, and strength training into your fitness regime to support overall skin health.
The tired ageing type particularly benefits from facial fitness techniques, which can be highly effective in prolonging youthful skin. In professional settings, treatments that improve muscle tone, enhance microcirculation, enrich the skin with oxygen, and reduce puffiness are ideal. Recommended treatments include toning manual massages such as chiromassage, sculptural-buccal massage, lifting and hydrating treatments, microcurrent therapy, superficial peels, and expertly selected chemical peels.
Your skincare products should focus on stimulating collagen production, improving skin tone, and enhancing radiance. Look for serums and creams with Vitamin C, products containing AHA acids, and masks that offer hydration and lifting effects. Don’t overlook regular physical activity, ideally outdoors. Combine cardio, stretching, and strength training into your fitness regime to support overall skin health.
The tired ageing type particularly benefits from facial fitness techniques, which can be highly effective in prolonging youthful skin. In professional settings, treatments that improve muscle tone, enhance microcirculation, enrich the skin with oxygen, and reduce puffiness are ideal. Recommended treatments include toning manual massages such as chiromassage, sculptural-buccal massage, lifting and hydrating treatments, microcurrent therapy, superficial peels, and expertly selected chemical peels.
Fine-Wrinkled Type
The name itself defines this ageing type, sometimes referred to as "baked apple" or "parchment skin". One of the positive aspects of this type is the minimal tendency towards ptosis (sagging), meaning the facial contours remain well-defined for a long time. Furthermore, fine-wrinkled morphotypes generally respond well to all types of cosmetic care.
Another characteristic of this type is a low level of the skin's natural moisturising factor (NMF), which contributes to dryness and dehydration.
Individuals with the fine-wrinkled ageing type are often naturally slender, with little tendency to gain weight. Their subcutaneous fat layer is poorly developed, and they tend to have highly expressive facial movements. As a result, early expression lines form on the forehead, at the corners of the eyes, and around the mouth in the form of fine, radial wrinkles. This ageing type is commonly associated with the overall "drying out" of the facial skin.
The name itself defines this ageing type, sometimes referred to as "baked apple" or "parchment skin". One of the positive aspects of this type is the minimal tendency towards ptosis (sagging), meaning the facial contours remain well-defined for a long time. Furthermore, fine-wrinkled morphotypes generally respond well to all types of cosmetic care.
Another characteristic of this type is a low level of the skin's natural moisturising factor (NMF), which contributes to dryness and dehydration.
Individuals with the fine-wrinkled ageing type are often naturally slender, with little tendency to gain weight. Their subcutaneous fat layer is poorly developed, and they tend to have highly expressive facial movements. As a result, early expression lines form on the forehead, at the corners of the eyes, and around the mouth in the form of fine, radial wrinkles. This ageing type is commonly associated with the overall "drying out" of the facial skin.
Care Recommendations
If we were to rank the ageing types according to their vulnerability to environmental factors, the fine-wrinkled type would undoubtedly be one of the most susceptible. Therefore, it is essential to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays, frost, and harsh winds.
The key question often raised by those with a fine-wrinkled ageing type is: how can I combat dryness and dehydration? For at-home care to improve skin condition and enhance the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), the following steps are recommended:
Gentle cleansing using hydrophilic oil, cleansing milk, or emulsion-based products. Use moisturising creams and masks, along with products that strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier to help retain moisture. Incorporate skincare products that boost skin firmness and elasticity and stimulate the production of natural collagen. These should contain ingredients such as niacinamide, peptides, amino acids, trace elements, and - used with caution - retinol. Also beneficial are glycerine, shea butter, jojoba oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, and vitamins A and E, along with other nourishing components.
Apply products containing hyaluronic acid regularly to enhance hydration and smooth out fine lines.
Pay attention to your diet: maintain a balanced diet and aim to drink 1.5 to 2 litres of water per day.
When it comes to professional treatments, effective options include manual facial massages using nourishing creams, deep moisturising treatments, device-based techniques that stimulate circulation and metabolism, chemical peels, and skin polishing procedures to minimise fine lines.
The key question often raised by those with a fine-wrinkled ageing type is: how can I combat dryness and dehydration? For at-home care to improve skin condition and enhance the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), the following steps are recommended:
Gentle cleansing using hydrophilic oil, cleansing milk, or emulsion-based products. Use moisturising creams and masks, along with products that strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier to help retain moisture. Incorporate skincare products that boost skin firmness and elasticity and stimulate the production of natural collagen. These should contain ingredients such as niacinamide, peptides, amino acids, trace elements, and - used with caution - retinol. Also beneficial are glycerine, shea butter, jojoba oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, and vitamins A and E, along with other nourishing components.
Apply products containing hyaluronic acid regularly to enhance hydration and smooth out fine lines.
Pay attention to your diet: maintain a balanced diet and aim to drink 1.5 to 2 litres of water per day.
When it comes to professional treatments, effective options include manual facial massages using nourishing creams, deep moisturising treatments, device-based techniques that stimulate circulation and metabolism, chemical peels, and skin polishing procedures to minimise fine lines.
Deformation Type
The deformation type of ageing is frequently seen in individuals with Slavic facial features, as well as women with a fuller body type and combination or oily skin. In this case, the face appears to gradually "sink" downwards, causing facial contours to lose their definition. In fact, the first signs of this process can become apparent even at a relatively young age.
Key characteristics include a well-developed subcutaneous fat layer, an excess of facial fat, and generally larger, fuller facial proportions. Over time, the facial oval becomes less defined, and other features may develop such as jowls, a double chin, and under-eye bags. This type is also prone to puffiness, pronounced nasolabial folds, so-called "marionette lines," and a pronounced or sagging double chin.
The deformation type of ageing is frequently seen in individuals with Slavic facial features, as well as women with a fuller body type and combination or oily skin. In this case, the face appears to gradually "sink" downwards, causing facial contours to lose their definition. In fact, the first signs of this process can become apparent even at a relatively young age.
Key characteristics include a well-developed subcutaneous fat layer, an excess of facial fat, and generally larger, fuller facial proportions. Over time, the facial oval becomes less defined, and other features may develop such as jowls, a double chin, and under-eye bags. This type is also prone to puffiness, pronounced nasolabial folds, so-called "marionette lines," and a pronounced or sagging double chin.
Care Recommendations
If you have identified that your facial ageing falls under the deformation type, what steps can you take to ensure that these age-related changes remain as subtle as possible? First and foremost, it is essential to monitor your weight, as excess weight tends to exacerbate visible signs of ageing. At home, make use of products that strengthen blood vessels and enhance microcirculation in the skin.
Incorporate anti-couperose creams and serums containing arnica extract, horse chestnut, and vitamins K, P, and C, as well as seaweed-based products. It is also important to include lymphatic drainage creams and masks in your routine. Daily facial self-massage focusing on lymphatic drainage techniques is highly recommended. Enhancing lymphatic drainage and boosting blood microcirculation are key factors in managing this type of ageing.
For professional treatments, I recommend massage techniques specifically designed for the deformation-oedematous type, combining a series of targeted manipulations. These should include lymphatic drainage and muscle strengthening techniques. You may also want to explore anti-couperose treatments to reduce puffiness and refine facial contours. To support these efforts, regular full-body massage and device-based aesthetic treatments can also be highly beneficial.
Incorporate anti-couperose creams and serums containing arnica extract, horse chestnut, and vitamins K, P, and C, as well as seaweed-based products. It is also important to include lymphatic drainage creams and masks in your routine. Daily facial self-massage focusing on lymphatic drainage techniques is highly recommended. Enhancing lymphatic drainage and boosting blood microcirculation are key factors in managing this type of ageing.
For professional treatments, I recommend massage techniques specifically designed for the deformation-oedematous type, combining a series of targeted manipulations. These should include lymphatic drainage and muscle strengthening techniques. You may also want to explore anti-couperose treatments to reduce puffiness and refine facial contours. To support these efforts, regular full-body massage and device-based aesthetic treatments can also be highly beneficial.
Combined Ageing Type
This type of ageing is particularly challenging to pinpoint due to its inconsistency, but the combined morphotype is the most common. Interestingly, the ageing process for this type often starts with characteristics similar to the ‘tired face’ type. Over time, features of other ageing types may also begin to appear to varying degrees.
For instance, fine lines often develop in areas with dry skin, while sagging in the cheek area can occur due to well-developed subcutaneous fat. This leads to the formation of nasolabial folds and contributes to a loss of facial definition.
Combined ageing is typically associated with combination skin, a normal body type, but with a tendency towards puffiness and weight gain.
Let me know if you’d like me to continue with the care recommendations for this type.
This type of ageing is particularly challenging to pinpoint due to its inconsistency, but the combined morphotype is the most common. Interestingly, the ageing process for this type often starts with characteristics similar to the ‘tired face’ type. Over time, features of other ageing types may also begin to appear to varying degrees.
For instance, fine lines often develop in areas with dry skin, while sagging in the cheek area can occur due to well-developed subcutaneous fat. This leads to the formation of nasolabial folds and contributes to a loss of facial definition.
Combined ageing is typically associated with combination skin, a normal body type, but with a tendency towards puffiness and weight gain.
Let me know if you’d like me to continue with the care recommendations for this type.
In this case, it is difficult to provide universal recommendations for either home care or professional treatments. With a combined ageing type, it is necessary to incorporate elements from different care strategies. The primary focus should be on addressing the specific signs of ageing that are most prominent.
Muscular Ageing Type
The muscular ageing type is most commonly found among women of Asian descent and is relatively rare among European women. Its defining feature is the development of well-defined facial muscles combined with minimal subcutaneous fat. As a result, the skin retains its firmness for a considerable time, and fine lines are virtually absent. A well-defined facial contour is a distinct advantage for those with the muscular morphotype, and this characteristic persists well into older age.
However, there is also a downside. With hormonal changes, the risk of losing skin elasticity increases. The upper cheeks can begin to sag, and deep folds and pronounced wrinkles may form.
The muscular ageing type is most commonly found among women of Asian descent and is relatively rare among European women. Its defining feature is the development of well-defined facial muscles combined with minimal subcutaneous fat. As a result, the skin retains its firmness for a considerable time, and fine lines are virtually absent. A well-defined facial contour is a distinct advantage for those with the muscular morphotype, and this characteristic persists well into older age.
However, there is also a downside. With hormonal changes, the risk of losing skin elasticity increases. The upper cheeks can begin to sag, and deep folds and pronounced wrinkles may form.
Care Recommendations
For women with the so-called Asian ageing type, the primary focus of both home and professional care should be on lymphatic drainage, relaxing massage techniques, regular skin hydration, and preventing hyperpigmentation.
It is important to remember that techniques suitable for women with a muscular ageing type may not be appropriate for those with tired or finely wrinkled skin types. For example, the well-known Japanese Asahi massage, which works for most ageing types except the muscular type, may overstretch the muscle ligaments, accelerating the appearance of age-related changes.
It is important to remember that techniques suitable for women with a muscular ageing type may not be appropriate for those with tired or finely wrinkled skin types. For example, the well-known Japanese Asahi massage, which works for most ageing types except the muscular type, may overstretch the muscle ligaments, accelerating the appearance of age-related changes.
Senile Ageing Type
The primary recommendation for this ageing type is to try to live to this stage while preserving a sense of joy, maintaining feelings of happiness and harmony, and nurturing an inner sense of energy and vitality.
The Paradox of Modern Beauty Trends
Of course, time changes us. We all want to look youthful for as long as possible. However, I don’t want to artificially alter my face beyond recognition, abusing modern rejuvenation methods that don’t always bring real benefits. The earlier and more often women turn to serious cosmetic procedures involving devices and injections, the older they end up looking. The lazier their bodies become, unwilling to rely on their own natural resources for renewal and recovery. That’s why I increasingly find myself misjudging people’s ages — and usually, I overestimate them.
There’s also another interesting observation. We are very selective when it comes to choosing skincare products. We carefully examine the ingredients, read reviews, and prefer natural products with fewer preservatives. That’s commendable. But have we ever truly considered what’s in the substances being injected into our skin? These are synthetic components — and that’s the paradox. We refuse to apply them as creams on the surface of our skin, yet we willingly inject them deep beneath it.
There’s also another interesting observation. We are very selective when it comes to choosing skincare products. We carefully examine the ingredients, read reviews, and prefer natural products with fewer preservatives. That’s commendable. But have we ever truly considered what’s in the substances being injected into our skin? These are synthetic components — and that’s the paradox. We refuse to apply them as creams on the surface of our skin, yet we willingly inject them deep beneath it.
Ageing Types and How We Perceive Ourselves
The way we look at the age of 40 to 50 is directly influenced by how we have cared for our skin and overall health in the years prior. It is important to cherish and nurture the natural beauty we have been gifted.
I encourage you to pause for a moment and map out your personal ageing timeline, starting from your twenties. For example, if you are now 30, you have already entered a phase where age-related changes begin to emerge. Now is the perfect time to reflect on how you would like to live the next 20 years and what results you hope to see when you reach 50. After all, by the time you turn 50, your appearance will largely reflect the care and attention you have devoted to yourself.
I encourage you to pause for a moment and map out your personal ageing timeline, starting from your twenties. For example, if you are now 30, you have already entered a phase where age-related changes begin to emerge. Now is the perfect time to reflect on how you would like to live the next 20 years and what results you hope to see when you reach 50. After all, by the time you turn 50, your appearance will largely reflect the care and attention you have devoted to yourself.
Important Rule
The youthfulness of both body and mind depends on a lifelong curiosity, a positive mindset, good posture, regular physical activity, a balanced diet, and consistent beauty care.
Personally, I’ve already set myself a new 20-year milestone, and I want to reach my happy 70 looking vibrant, confident, stylish, and content — a woman in her prime, with a beautiful complexion and the wrinkles I’ve earned, which I have absolutely no intention of parting with. After all, my wrinkles tell the story of my life. The fine lines at the corners of my eyes capture countless smiles. The frown line between my brows reflects all the challenges I’ve faced in difficult times. The horizontal lines across my forehead speak of surprise and wonder. One thing I’m certain of — I never want my face to bear the marks of sadness or neglect. I truly hope that day never comes.
Every wrinkle on my face has earned the right to stay, and to erase them completely would be like stripping away the fine craquelure from a treasured masterpiece. What would be left? Something soulless and devalued. I will always choose authenticity and quality over artificial perfection. And if I am fortunate enough to live through the next 20 years — from 70 to 90 — I hope to remain a curious, positive woman, bringing joy and love to those around me.
Every wrinkle on my face has earned the right to stay, and to erase them completely would be like stripping away the fine craquelure from a treasured masterpiece. What would be left? Something soulless and devalued. I will always choose authenticity and quality over artificial perfection. And if I am fortunate enough to live through the next 20 years — from 70 to 90 — I hope to remain a curious, positive woman, bringing joy and love to those around me.
Source: MYHANDBOOK
Author: Lana Buckley
Author: Lana Buckley
