lana Buckley

Seven Major Cosmetic Concerns:
A Professional Opinion

Since ancient times, women have cared for themselves, exploring countless ways to preserve youth and beauty while honouring their cultures and unique standards of aesthetics. From Egypt and India to Japan, Italy, France, and Russia - each country has developed its own techniques, rituals, and philosophies. It’s believed that Cleopatra herself wrote the first beauty manual, favouring milk baths, aromatic infusions, healing oils, and facial massages, as well as mud-based treatments.

I would love to read that manual and perhaps add a few homemade face mask recipes to my own collection. It’s said that Chinese women once used silk cloths to sweep gently across the face, producing static electricity to stimulate the skin and encourage regeneration. Russian women embraced morning dew, washing their faces with it, and made nourishing masks from ingredients like eggs, flour, cream, cottage cheese, and even berries or sauerkraut. Hair was rinsed with herbal infusions. Many of these remedies are still useful today - if only we knew where to collect morning dew!

The Paradox of Modern Cosmetology

Modern cosmetology continues to evolve rapidly alongside technological progress. Professionals in the field now have access to an ever-expanding range of methods for addressing aesthetic concerns, constantly enriched by new techniques and products as scientific understanding advances.

Yet despite the passing of time and impressive technological strides, certain issues remain persistent. These are challenges we continue to face each day. Over the years of my practice, I have observed that while some concerns remain unchanged, others have emerged or even worsened as a direct result of technological innovation.

7 Main Concerns:

  • Dehydrated Skin
    Dehydration refers to a condition in which your skin lacks sufficient moisture throughout its layers. It is a serious issue that can lead to other skin concerns if not addressed properly.
    1
  • Sensitive Skin
    Caring for sensitive skin at home often resembles the care needed for dehydrated skin. The most important step is identifying the underlying cause.
    2
  • Breakouts and Acne
    As with sensitive and dehydrated skin, breakouts and acne benefit from targeted home care. The key lies in determining the root cause of inflammation or irritation.
    3
  • Pigmentation
    Pigmentation can be genetic, such as freckles, or it may develop over time due to sun exposure and past acne. Understanding its type helps guide effective treatment.
    4
  • Dark Circles Under Eyes
    Dark circles are a common cosmetic concern. However, it is important to rule out any serious health issues. Seeking advice from a specialist may be necessary.
    5
  • Swelling
    Facial swelling may result from several factors, including ageing, health conditions, alcohol intake, poor diet, or stress. Addressing the cause is key to managing it effectively.
    6
  • Ageing Changes
    Changes related to ageing are a natural part of life. The way your skin ages varies depending on genetics, lifestyle, and even your mindset. A positive outlook can support a more graceful appearance.
    7
What to Do?
Prevention is key - proper home care tailored to your skin type and condition is essential. It is also important to consider your genetic predisposition, type of ageing changes, climate conditions, diet, stress levels, frequency of travel, and hormonal balance. Understanding that only a quarter of skin concerns are inherited, while the rest depend on our lifestyle and daily habits, is crucial in maintaining healthy skin.
Let’s Analyse the Key Aspects
1. Dehydrated Skin
Dehydration is a specific condition in which your skin lacks adequate moisture in its layers. This is a serious concern, as it can lead to various other skin issues. It is important to note that dehydrated skin can affect both dry and oily skin types.

Several common causes include unsuitable skincare routines, insufficient water intake, prolonged computer use (commonly referred to as digital ageing), alcohol consumption, smoking, antibiotic use, stress, and excessive sun exposure.

Preventive Measures:

  • Tailor your skincare routine at home based on your skin type. It is helpful to consult a cosmetic specialist for personalised advice on selecting appropriate products and following the essential steps: cleansing, toning, hydrating, and protecting. Each stage plays a vital role.
  • Minimise the effects of "digital ageing." If you spend long hours at a computer, make hydration a priority. Use a moisturising mask in the morning and evening. Keeping a hydrating mist nearby for use during the day is also beneficial. You might also place a small bowl of water or a cactus near your workspace to help increase air moisture levels. If working from home, consider using a hydrating mask regularly. Adjusting your screen to a warmer setting can also help reduce strain..
  • Ultraviolet exposure is a major cause of accelerated skin ageing. To protect your skin, avoid direct sunlight and always apply sun protection. Notably, cases of pigmentation have decreased in recent years, likely due to improved awareness of sun protection products. This is a welcome development. While everyone has different habits, it is worth being consistent and thorough when it comes to protecting your skin.

Avoid letting your skin become overly dry, as this can lead to increased sensitivity, the early formation of wrinkles, and deeper lines. It may also trigger breakouts, especially when the skin's protective barrier is compromised, allowing bacteria to penetrate more easily. Well-hydrated skin is key to maintaining a strong, resilient complexion.
2. Skin Sensitivity
Caring for sensitive skin at home often involves approaches similar to those used for dehydrated skin. The key is to understand what triggers your sensitivity. In my experience, sensitivity frequently stems from using unsuitable skincare products or applying overly harsh treatments. These are often found in some popular commercial brands.

To care properly for sensitive skin, it is essential to protect the skin’s lipid barrier. Avoid overusing products that contain salicylic acid, retinol, vinegar, and other active acids. Physical exfoliants like scrubs should also be used with care. Moderation is vital as you should always tailor your routine to suit your skin’s specific needs and condition.
3. Breakouts and Acne
Acne and breakouts have become more common nowadays due to poor diet, environmental pollution, toxin build-up in the body, high stress, and overuse of skincare and makeup products. Hormonal changes caused by these factors can lead to increased sebum production. Teen acne is often more aggressive, and adult acne is on the rise.

To prevent and treat acne effectively, it's important to take a thorough approach. Children should be taught basic hygiene from an early age, such as the importance of clean clothes and towels and the need to use personal items like brushes, sponges, and combs.

Diet also plays a key role. It's important to reduce sugar, juices, pastries, and fizzy drinks. Setting a good example through a balanced diet is especially helpful for children. I often speak with clients about this, regardless of age. Keeping a food diary for a couple of weeks can help identify foods that might trigger breakouts. By observing and removing certain items from your diet, it's easier to spot connections between food and skin problems.

Seeing a specialist and getting specific medical tests can also be useful. Try not to delay seeking advice or turn to self-treatment with harsh products or antibiotics.
4. Pigmentation and Photoaging
Pigmentation appears in two forms: genetic, such as freckles, and acquired, often caused by acne marks or exposure to sunlight. These days, pigmentation also occurs more frequently as a reaction to laser skin treatments. This tends to happen when the treatment plan is not properly tailored, leading to new pigmentation instead of improving your skin’s condition.

Pigmentation may also follow chemical peels, which are widely available in many varieties. This can create a cycle, where new pigmentation forms, leading to more peels and further laser treatments. What can be done? Although modern rejuvenation methods are effective, they should always be carried out by experienced professionals at trusted clinics.

It’s best to schedule these types of procedures during the cooler months. Aftercare at home should focus on calming the skin, reducing sensitivity, and keeping it well hydrated. Recovery usually takes around three to four weeks.
5. Dark Circles Under the Eyes
Dark circles are a common concern. First and foremost, it is important to rule out any serious underlying health issues and consult a specialist if needed. More generally, dark circles are often linked to poor circulation around the eyes. Common causes include stress, lack of sleep, chronic fatigue, poor diet, vitamin deficiencies, and dehydration. In some cases, Botox injections can disrupt microcirculation, leading to puffiness and fluid retention.

Given this, the main focus should be on improving circulation in the under-eye area. Helpful strategies include getting quality sleep in a cool, dark room, staying well hydrated, managing stress through yoga, Pilates or meditation, and incorporating facial massage into your routine. Just five to ten minutes of gentle self-massage can boost blood flow, reduce puffiness and fatigue, bring back brightness to the eyes, and even help with vision clarity.

Using appropriate eye care products is also important. Always remove makeup thoroughly and try to include treatments that encourage fluid drainage. In professional settings, dark circle treatments may include laser therapy, biorevitalisation, lymphatic drainage massage or other modern techniques. Take good care of your eyes, as they truly are the mirror of your soul.
6. Swelling
Swelling can be caused by a number of factors, including age-related changes, overall health conditions, dehydration, excessive alcohol intake, poor diet, and stress. These are all well known. However, a more common cause in recent times is the use of hyaluronic acid, Botox, and other filler injections.

Some people end up with too much hyaluronic acid in their face, which the body finds difficult to process. This often leads to water retention and unnecessary puffiness. Just one molecule of hyaluronic acid can attract around 700 molecules of water, locking moisture into the skin, which contributes to swelling. Although this can improve hydration and collagen production, the downside is a bloated or swollen look that can age your appearance, which is often described as the “rubber pillow” effect.

What can you do? First, avoid overusing injectables. Before considering such treatments, it is important to understand your own skin’s needs and ageing pattern. For instance, if you have a certain type of facial ageing, you may not need injections at all. Instead, you can use self-massage techniques that encourage lymphatic drainage. Other helpful measures include using masks and creams with a drainage effect, drinking more water, reducing salty foods, and keeping active to support your metabolism and manage weight. Professional facial and full-body massage treatments can also be very effective in reducing swelling.
7. Ageing Changes
Ageing is a natural and inevitable part of life. However, we all experience it differently depending on factors such as genetics, lifestyle and perhaps most importantly, a positive mindset. Today, being in your fifties is often viewed in the same way being in your forties was twenty or thirty years ago. Many people now look younger and feel more confident than ever before.

Attitudes towards ageing have shifted, and modern rejuvenation methods have become more advanced. However, these techniques can sometimes have the opposite effect. This tends to happen when younger women begin aesthetic treatments too early, leading to a noticeable change in their appearance. Some choose to undergo plastic surgery, losing their unique features, while others rely heavily on injections, which may eventually make them look older than they are.

Over time, the body can begin to depend on these procedures. It is not unusual for women in their mid-thirties to resemble women in their mid-forties, not due to ageing but because of unnecessary intervention.

My advice is simple. Do not rush. Everything should be done thoughtfully and only when it is genuinely necessary.
Instead of an Epilogue

The paradox of modern cosmetology, interestingly, lies in its variety, which can sometimes have an unintended effect on the prevention of age-related changes. What may be suitable at forty or fifty should certainly not be applied at twenty-five or thirty. Yet I am aware that such situations occur.

Your cosmetologist understands that your appearance will continue to change with time. A skilled professional will always recommend the appropriate treatments and home care tailored to your individual features and stage of life.

Whatever your age, I wish you energy, beauty, confidence and excellent health.

Source: MYHANDBOOK
Author: Lana Buckley
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