lana Buckley

Seven Major Cosmetic Concerns:
A Professional Opinion

Since Ancient Times Women have taken care of themselves, experimenting with various methods to maintain youth and beauty while adhering to cultural traditions and specific aesthetic standards. Egypt, India, Japan, Italy, France, and Russia—each country has its own preferences, techniques, products, and aesthetic principles. It is said that the first beauty manual was created by Cleopatra, a devotee of milk baths, aromatic infusions, ointments, body and facial massages using healing oils, and mud treatments.

I would love to read this manual and add a few homemade mask recipes to my collection. It is known that Chinese women used silk wipes to rub their faces, generating static electricity that stimulated cells and enhanced regeneration. Russian women preferred washing their faces with morning dew, making masks from eggs, flour, cream, and cottage cheese, as well as berries and sauerkraut, and rinsing their hair with herbal infusions. These recipes are still usable today—if only we knew where to gather morning dew!

The Paradox of Modern Cosmetology

Modern cosmetology is rapidly evolving alongside technological progress. Industry professionals have a vast arsenal of methods aimed at correcting aesthetic concerns, continuously enriched by new techniques and products as science advances. However, despite the passage of time and scientific development, a set of persistent issues remains - problems we encounter daily. In fact, over the years of my practice, I have observed that while some concerns have stayed the same, others have emerged or even worsened as a direct result of technological advancements.

7 Main Concerns:

  • Dehydrated Skin
    Dehydration is a specific condition where the skin lacks sufficient moisture in its layers. This is a serious issue that can lead to other skin problems.
    1
  • Sensitive Skin
    Home care and preventive measures for sensitive skin can be similar to those for dehydrated skin. The key is to identify the root cause.
    2
  • Breakouts and Acne
    Home care and preventive measures for sensitive skin can be similar to those for dehydrated skin. The key is to identify the root cause.
    3
  • Pigmentation and Photoaging
    Pigmentation occurs in two forms: genetic (e.g., freckles) or acquired (resulting from post-acne marks and UV exposure).
    4
  • Dark Circles Under the Eyes
    Dark circles are a common concern. It is crucial to rule out serious underlying causes and consult a specialist if necessary.
    5
  • Swelling
    Swelling can be caused by various factors such as ageing, overall health conditions, dehydration, excessive alcohol consumption, poor diet, and stress.
    6
  • Ageing Changes
    Ageing-related changes are an inevitable natural process. However, the way we age varies, influenced by genetics, lifestyle, and even an important factor—our positive mindset.
    7
What to Do?
Prevention is key - proper home care tailored to your skin type and condition is essential. It is also important to consider your genetic predisposition, type of ageing changes, climate conditions, diet, stress levels, frequency of travel, and hormonal balance. Understanding that only a quarter of skin concerns are inherited, while the rest depend on our lifestyle and daily habits, is crucial in maintaining healthy skin.
Let’s Analyse the Key Aspects
1. Dehydrated Skin
Dehydration is a specific condition where the skin lacks sufficient moisture in its layers. This is a serious concern that can lead to other skin issues. It is essential to understand that dehydrated skin can be either dry or oily.
There are several primary causes: improper skincare, insufficient water intake, prolonged computer use (the term "digital ageing" is highly relevant in the modern world), as well as alcohol consumption, smoking, antibiotic use, stress, and excessive UV exposure.

Preventive Measures:

Adjust your home skincare routine according to your skin type. Consult a cosmetologist for the correct selection of skincare products and adherence to all essential steps: cleansing, toning, hydration, and protection. Each of these steps is crucial.
Minimise the effects of "digital ageing." If you spend long hours working at a computer, pay extra attention to skin hydration—apply moisturising masks in the morning and evening. Keeping a hydrating mist spray on hand for use throughout the day is beneficial. Place a small dish of water and a cactus near your screen to improve air moisture levels. If working from home, apply a hydrating mask. For mobile phone use, switch your screen to a warmer, yellow-toned setting to reduce strain.
Ultraviolet exposure is a major cause of accelerated skin ageing. What should you do? Avoid direct sunlight and always apply sun protection. Interestingly, pigmentation issues have become significantly less common after summer holidays compared to the past—thanks to increased awareness of SPF creams. This is undoubtedly a positive change.
When it comes to harmful habits, each person makes their own choices, but in such cases, skincare should be even more thorough and targeted.

Do not let your skin become excessively dry, as this leads to increased sensitivity, early wrinkles, and deeper wrinkle formation. It also contributes to breakouts due to a disrupted hydrolipid barrier, making the skin more vulnerable to bacterial penetration. Healthy skin is well-hydrated skin.
2. Skin Sensitivity
Home care and preventive measures for sensitive skin can be similar to those for dehydrated skin. The key is to understand the cause. From my experience, I know that skin sensitivity is often linked to the use of improperly selected skincare products or overly aggressive treatments, which are common in some well-known brands.

Therefore, remember: it is crucial to protect the lipid barrier by avoiding excessive use of products containing salicylic acid, retinol, vinegar, and other acids, as well as mechanical scrubs. Everything should be used in moderation, taking into account your skin type and condition.
3. Breakouts and Acne
Unfortunately, in today's world, the issue of acne and breakouts has worsened due to poor nutrition, environmental pollution, toxin buildup in the body, high stress levels, and an overuse of skincare and decorative cosmetics. Hormonal fluctuations are triggered by all these factors, leading to increased sebum production. Teenage acne has become more aggressive, and adult acne is increasingly common.

Of course, prevention and treatment must be approached comprehensively. From an early age, it is important to teach basic hygiene habits—explaining the significance of clean clothing and towels, as well as the importance of using personal items such as brushes, sponges, and combs.

A key aspect of acne prevention is a proper diet. It is essential to minimise sugar, juices, pastries, and carbonated drinks. Setting a personal example by promoting a balanced diet for children is crucial. During my consultations, I always discuss these factors with clients of all ages. Keeping a food diary for two to three weeks is a great method to track dietary triggers. Through observation and elimination, it becomes possible to identify specific foods that may be causing skin reactions, such as breakouts and acne.

Consultation with a specialist and specific medical tests are also essential. Do not delay seeking professional help or attempt to self-medicate using antibiotics or harsh treatments.
4. Pigmentation and Photoaging
Pigmentation comes in two forms: genetic (such as freckles) and acquired (caused by post-acne marks or UV exposure). Additionally, pigmentation is now frequently seen as a post-traumatic effect following laser skin rejuvenation procedures. This occurs when an incorrectly chosen treatment regimen by a specialist leads to new pigmentation spots instead of improving the skin’s condition.

Pigmentation often develops after chemical peels, which are now widely available in various forms. This creates a cycle - new pigmentation appears, leading to more peels and additional laser treatments. What should be done? While modern skin rejuvenation techniques are effective, they should only be performed at reputable clinics by qualified specialists.

It is crucial to undergo such procedures during the autumn-winter period. After treatments, at-home skincare should focus on reducing skin sensitivity and addressing dehydration until full recovery, which typically takes three to four weeks.
5. Dark Circles Under the Eyes
Dark circles are a common issue. First and foremost, it is essential to rule out serious underlying health conditions and consult a specialist if necessary. On a more general level, this problem is often linked to poor blood circulation in the eye area. The most common causes include stress, lack of sleep, chronic fatigue, poor diet, vitamin deficiencies, and dehydration. Additionally, Botox injections can sometimes disrupt microcirculation, leading to fluid retention and puffiness.

Considering this, the main focus should be on improving blood circulation in the periorbital area. Key factors that help include quality sleep in a cool room, proper hydration to prevent fluid retention, stress reduction through yoga, Pilates, or meditation, and regular facial massage. Just five to ten minutes of self-massage can enhance circulation, reduce fatigue and puffiness, restore brightness to the eyes, and even improve vision.

It is also crucial to use specialised eye care products, always remove makeup properly, and incorporate drainage-effect treatments into your routine. In beauty clinics, dark circle correction may involve laser therapy, biorevitalisation, professional massage, or other modern treatments.
Take care of your eyes—they are the mirror of the soul!
6. Swelling
Swelling can have various causes, such as ageing-related changes, overall health conditions, dehydration, excessive alcohol consumption, poor diet, and stress. These are well-known factors, but I would like to highlight a more frequently encountered cause in modern times - injections of hyaluronic acid, Botox, and fillers.

Some individuals have faces excessively saturated with hyaluronic acid, which the body struggles to process, leading to unnecessary water retention in the face. It is well known that one molecule of hyaluronic acid attracts approximately 700 molecules of water, retaining moisture in the skin layers but also exacerbating puffiness. While this has positive effects, such as skin hydration and collagen synthesis, a negative side effect is facial swelling, creating a "rubber pillow" effect that visually adds years to one's appearance.

What can be done? First and foremost, avoid overusing injections. Before undergoing such a procedure, it is advisable to consider your individual characteristics and type of ageing-related changes. For example, if you have a deformation-type ageing pattern, injections may not be necessary at all. Instead, opt for self-massage techniques using lymphatic drainage methods. Additionally, using masks and creams with a drainage effect, drinking more water, minimising salty foods, and maintaining physical activity to boost metabolism and control weight are essential. At a professional level, facial and full-body massage techniques work exceptionally well in reducing swelling.
7. Ageing Changes
Ageing is an inevitable and natural process. However, we all age differently, influenced by genetics, lifestyle, and an equally significant factor—a positive mindset. Today, being 50+ is perceived the same way as 40+ was 20-30 years ago. In fact, we look younger and feel more confident than ever before.

Attitudes towards ageing have changed, and modern rejuvenation methods have become more effective. However, sometimes they can have the opposite effect. This happens when young women start anti-ageing procedures too early, drastically altering their appearance. Some resort to plastic surgery, losing their individuality, while others overuse injections, making them look significantly older than their actual age. As a result, the body becomes reliant on these procedures, and young women in their mid-30s start appearing like well-maintained 45+ women.

My advice: do not rush. Everything should be done at the right time and when truly necessary.
Instead of an Epilogue

The paradox of modern cosmetology, strangely enough, lies in its diversity, which can sometimes have a negative impact on the prevention of ageing changes. What is recommended at 40 or 50 years old should never be done at 25-30 years old. However, I am aware that this issue exists.

Your cosmetologist understands how your appearance will evolve with age. A good specialist will always recommend the right procedures and home care based on your individual characteristics and age.

Regardless of your age, I wish you to always remain energetic, beautiful, well-groomed, and healthy!

Source: MYHANDBOOK
Author: Lana Buckley
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